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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.